May Garden

Our garden is keeping me sane.

1. Phenology journal:

I've been recording the phenology in my garden to broaden my awareness, deepen my connection to the wildlife around me, and to better understand the calendar of my environment and how it is changing. I'm focusing on a few native plants and personal favorites in my yard, the birds at my feeder, and some specific patches of leaf mulch (for insects).

This transition week to May 2026 was warm, overcast in the morning and sunny most afternoons. The high temperatures have been in the mid-60's, rising to 75ºF this Thursday.

As of early May, 2026, Eugene has recorded approximately 11.8 to 13.7 inches of rainfall for the year to date. This total is below the average pace of roughly 18-19 inches for this point in the season.

The USA National Phenology Network tracks the status of spring by when things bloom and leaves appear: "The First Leaf and First Bloom Indices are synthetic measures of these early season events in plants, based on recent temperature conditions. These models allow us to track the progression of spring onset across the country." 

It looks to me like our spring leaf-out was average, and our spring bloom was early. 

Serviceberry tree

May 2, 2026, Phenology Notes:

• Birds: Few birds, mostly Jays.

• Plants: Oregon Sunshine and Yarrow - both lush- no blooms yet; Red-flowering currant- flower buds are finished; Serviceberry- just beginning to bloom; Milkweed- coming up all over the place.

• Insects: Lots of bees out.

2. May garden tasks:

The May garden is exciting but demanding. Watering is crucial, and harvesting begins in earnest. We've had some warm and dry days, interspersed with wet spring days - a nice mix, but the trend this month is drier.

I use the Second Breakfast Garden monthly guides, because they are in zone 8b.

1. Harvesting: I'm harvesting rhubarb, lettuce, spinach, and herbs. My rosemary, thyme, sage, and mint are in their full glory, and it's time to harvest them and hang bunches to dry. As soon as they go to flower their flavor won’t be quite as nice. 
2. Set up hoses: When it gets dry I need to get the rest of my soaker hoses out and plan a layout. Also need to replace a long hose that is leaking.
3. Cool season crops (greens, peas, beets, kale, etc.) might need nitrogen during this period of rapid growth - watch for yellowing of the older leaves, because nitrogen is a mobile nutrient and the plant will draw nitrogen from older leaves to support the younger ones. Use a nitrogen rich, liquid fertilizer which is easily taken up and put to use.
4. Thinning- Carrots: Use scissors to snip to the soil line. Remove all but one within a two inch radius. Beets: Each beet seed contains three or more plants. Gently pull or snip the extras so they each have about three inches of space. Lettuces: Gently pull extras so each has about a six inch radius.
5. Warm season crops: I've just begun to hardening my pumpkins and tomatoes (cucumbers were started late) to set out anytime after Mother's Day. When planting cucurbits (melons, cucumbers, squash) don’t break up pot-bound roots. These plants have many delicate root hairs and don’t recover well from root disturbance.
6. Slug and snail proaction: Here in my valley you have to have a plan or you will loose everything. I remember the goal is to bring snail numbers down, not total eradication: I collect all of the leftover mulch and put it into the compost, and then sprinkle Sluggo sparingly, about 1 pellet every six or so inches. This week I'll need to protect my strawberries and new tomatoes.

Pest Control Philosophy at SBG: "My first step, is invariably to wait and see. Many pest species are a primary food source for other wildlife. They just need a minute to move in and solve my problems for me. If I must intervene, hygiene, flinging, and spraying with water is about as aggressive as my pest control measures get. If that fails and a chemical control (the synthetic and toxic kind) is necessary, then I shrug it off and leave it to fend for itself. I don’t see the logic in spending money to risk my health, and the health of the ecosystem to grow something I can do without."

3. Wildlife garden:

I've got a few spots to work on in the next months, little by little: 

1. A nice caterpillar haven under my service berry (low, sunny): I'm going to dig out all the buttercup, mulch it thickly, and then look for some native sedums - 

Oregon Stonecrop (Sedum oreganum): The most common native stonecrop, featuring shiny, fleshy green to reddish leaves and star-shaped yellow flowers.

Pacific Aster 

Dwarf Goldenrod (Solidago simplex)

 

2. A wetlands bed near the drain field (tall, sunny): I've got a checkermellow that needs a home, and perhaps...

Fireweed

Cascade Penstemon

 

3. Under the hawthorns, removing more iris and filling in (dry, shady).

Foothill Sedge (Carex tumilicola): Highly recommended for dry upland gardens, forming dense, fine-textured clumps that work well as a lawn alternative.